Sunday, November 28, 2010

Patagonia? or not?





I thought I had left Patagonia some days ago when I entered the Lake District. But it seems, possibly, this is just a geographical designation made by the Lonely Planet guidebook. I last wrote from kind of hippie-ish town of El Bolson where I stayed at the kind of hippie-ish guesthouse. I met 4 wacky Spanish gals, as well as a nice German/Spanish girl who was working there. They were great fun and it seems we made some sort of loose plans for me to visit them in the springtime in Ibiza where they live. I did a lot of hiking in El Bolsón to include the afternoon that I walked to the "Hidden Waterfall" which was so hidden that I got lost. I finally made it there and was about to head back to town and a man surfaced from a nearby farm to tell me that it would be dark before I made it back and that he would drive me back to town. This guy, Pablo, showed me his compound. He has his own sawmill where he makes his own boards and has built lots of really cute little cabins. He plans to open the compound (cabins, camping, etc.) to tourists probably next season. He also has a small organic farm and has taken on some German travelers to help him out. THen he tells me that for a few days that "a Jef from Chicago" was staying there and helping out. I couldn´t believe it as I had met Jef from Chicago while in Ushaia and he has been e-mailing me with travel tips as he is about a week ahead of me on roughly the same route. It was quite a coincidence. He introduced me to the young Germans and to the Argentine brother and sister who are working for him as well. Then he drove me back into town which was a good thing as actually it got darker earlier than I had anticipated. After 2 or 3 days in El Bolsón I went to Bariloche which is a town on a beautiful lake with snowy mountains all around. The setting is stunning but the town has become very touristy and overgrown. So, I have moved up to another charming lake town, San Martin de los Andes. The town is much cuter than Bariloche but Bariloche´s lake is more scenic. All of these towns have restaurants with authentic "Patagonian" fare. The souvineers all say "Patagonia" so I guess it is still Patagonia. I was perplexed but according to wikipedia there is not a clearly defined limit to Patagonia. So, I guess, I am in Patagonia. Tomorrow I will go on a tour of the route of the 7 lakes...a dirt road with villages and...shockingly 7 lakes. It should be good. The following day I go on my LAST long haul bus ride...about 21 hours to Buenos Aires. I still haven´t been able to add photos but Michael and Adele, a couple from the Antarctica trip, sent a link to some of theirs which are much better than mine anyway. The pictures towards the bottom (with seals, green grass, etc) are not of Antarctica but are Tierra del Fuego. Here´s the link: http://gallery.me.com/mwgilbert2#100321&bgcolor=black&view=grid Sorry that I am unable to highlight it. I don´t know how to do that. They are really good pictures though so you might want to cut and paste.

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